Dear Maintenance Men:
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Dear Maintenance Men: |
By Jerry L'Ecuyer & Frank Alvarez
April 2001
Dear Maintenance Men:
I have an old bathtub that is very ugly.
I don’t want to go through the expense of replacement. Are
there other alternatives? Feeling ugly in Anaheim
Dear Feeling Ugly:
Removing a bathtub can be quite an undertaking; it is understandable to look for alternatives. There are basically two ways to go. The first method is to re-sleeve or insert a new acrylic tub liner. The acrylic liners are very durable and should last at least 10 years. The cost is less than half of a tub replacement or in a price range of $450-$800. This is a good long-term solution. The second method is a spray-on 2 part Polyurethane finish. Most contractors will guarantee their work for 5 years. Quality and cost seem to go hand-in-hand for this work. The low cost applications in our opinion are very short term & satisfaction is poor. In the higher cost work we have found superior quality material and much better adhesion to the tub. If cost is your sole criteria, low end refinishing cannot be beat. We find the higher end finish will hold up better to tenant abuse. Cost range can be from $180-$300 depending on quality. If you decide on the spray application, we highly recommend that you remove the shower handles, spout and shower head/arm. The tub should cure for at least three days before use. Removing the shower hardware will help insure the non-use of the tub & longer product life. A new spray material not widely in use, is an Acrylic Urethane resin which has a drying time of four hours and a curing time of 24 hours, cutting down time dramatically. Ask your contractor about it.
Dear Maintenance Men:
I have a toilet that constantly fills
every five or ten minutes. I have replaced the fill & flapper
valves but the problems persist. Losing Water in Newport.
Dear Losing Water:
Leaks at the Flush Valve are possibly caused by a damaged flush valve seat which may have a hole or the rim is pitted or cracked. The seat is the large drain hole at the bottom of the tank. A temporary repair may be to sand the seat with a steel wool pad or wet/dry sandpaper. This will remove the calcium build-up. If the seat is damaged, replacing the seat will be the next option. “Fluidmaster, Inc” makes a Flusher Fixer Kit that can be cemented directly on top of your old worn flush valve seat. This is a quick fix that may not work on all toilets. If the seat kit does not work, you will need to replace the valve seat. This can be accomplished by removing the tank from the base of the toilet: Turn off the water to the fill valve, disconnect the water line and remove any water from the tank. Unscrew the two or three brass bolts under the tank and carefully lift off. Once the tank is removed, turn it upside down. Remove the rubber “Spud” washer from the tank. Spin the large nut from the threads and then push the valve seat through the tank. Reverse the procedure when installing the new valve seat. Always install a new “Spud” washer and new brass bolts and washers. Be sure your toilet tank is installed level, as this will aid in operation.
Dear Maintenance Men:
I own a four-plex that uses Mix-it Valves
in the shower. The mixing handle is very hard to move from
the cold to the hot water position. Can this problem be fixed or
do need to buy new valves? Short Shower in Long Beach.
Dear Short Shower:
Yes, your problem can be fixed. Replacement maybe necessary for a long-term solution at or about the same cost of repair. Most cartridge style shower valves are plagued by similar problems related to wear, hard water corrosion and build up. A typical problem with cartridge style valve assemblies is a lack of plumbers grease. The procedures for repair or replacement often differ depending on the manufacture or original installation of the fixture or housing. To determine your model of Mix-it Valve; remove your trim kit. There should be (2) valve screws for turning off the water supply. Turn these screws clockwise to shut off hot and cold water to the housing. If no valve screws exist, turn off the main water to the unit or home. You are now ready to remove your cartridge. Using a socket type tool or “Channel Locks” remove the cartridge retainer (if it is difficult, use Liquid Wrench oil to loosen). You will now determine one of two models.
1. 1968 to Present is 41/2”long.
2. Prior to 1968 is 61/4” long.
Before replacement, check the inside housing for damage or seat replacement. Read and understand all installation instructions supplied with the new valve. Clean housing sleeve of any residue from prior grease. When installing the new cartridge apply a liberal amount of plumber’s grease on the entire cartridge. Be sure to push the new cartridge in firmly until the brass retainer washer touches the housing. Install the sleeve retainer by threading it on carefully (do not tighten too much, this may also cause your new handle to be difficult to operate). Now the water can be turned back on, turn both valve screws counter clockwise to turn on the water to the fixture or main valve. Check for leaks in the cartridge or valve screws. Replace trim kits, diverter handle and knob. Move diverter handle to hot water and cold water sides to check installation. Remember to never move your diverter handle a full rotation, this may reverse the hot and cold, which could scald the user.