Dear Maintenance Men:

 

By Jerry L'Ecuyer & Frank Alvarez

www.JLE1.com

 

 

 

Dear Maintenance Men:

I have a garbage disposal problem.  After thoroughly inspecting my vacant unit and finding every thing working properly, including the garbage disposal, a new resident moves in and the disposal does not work.   I don’t want to replace the garbage disposal each time, what can I do?

Benjamin

 

Dear Benjamin:

Most likely what is happing is your resident is moving in weeks or maybe a month after the unit is deemed rent ready. The garbage disposal has been sitting idle and may have rusted shut.  A quick turn of a wrench will get the disposal working again, but that means a trip out to the property and lost money.  As a preventative measure, spray the inside of the garbage disposal with WD-40 while it is running.  Do not use water and only let the disposal run two or three seconds.  This should be adequate to keep the garbage disposal loose and ready for action. 

 

 

 

Dear Maintenance Men:

I have a garage door that has a broken spring. Should I change both springs or is it OK to just replace the broken one.

Thank, John

 

Dear John:

Springs are cheap compared to lawsuits.  Always replace both sets of springs. The one spring snapped because it was beyond its life expectancy.  The other springs on that door are also close to failure.  The garage door may also not work properly with worn springs on one side and new ones on the other.  A well-balanced door will be safer, easer to open and will better tolerate the elements such as rain and wind.  To test the balance, open the garage door and hold it at your belt level or about three & half to four feet above the ground.   A perfectly balanced door should be able to hover without crashing closed or popping up to the full open position.     Remember, always throwaway used springs to stop the temptation of reusing them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dear Maintenance Man:

Help!!  I am trying to learn how to caulk a bathtub, but I get more caulk on me then on the tub.  How do I not create a mess and at the same time make the job look smooth and professional.

Robert

 

 Dear Robert:

Yes, we’ve all struggled with our caulking nightmares.  Here is a simple solution; First always remove the old caulk and clean before installing new caulk and make sure everything is dry.  Then:

1.      Check the size of bead you will need; smaller is better than larger.

2.      Cut the nozzle of your tube to the desired size. It is best to cut the nozzle at a 45-degree angle and again, the smaller the opening (within reason) the easier it will be to apply.

3.      (If you are new at this, it is best to use a water-based product. The clean up is easier.)

Apply your caulk in a slow and even continuous fashion. Do not stop or worry about defects at this time. Your caulking gun should be at a 45-degree angle to your work. If you don’t have enough caulk the first time, you can go over it again. 

4.      Now using your damp finger wipe away excess caulk from your desired location. Some basics to keep in mind; keep a damp rag with you to wipe off your nozzle and fingers from time to time. Don’t let the caulk build-up too much. Position your finger between a 30 to 45 degree angle to the work, pull your finger along the caulk, gently pushing the material into the corner. 98 percent of the material should glide under your finger and not be pushed in front of your finger.  If you have a big gob of caulk on your finger, you may be pushing to hard on the caulk and not letting enough glide through or you have used too much caulk. 

5.      Now taking a damp square sponge wipe in a slow continuous fashion along your new caulk. Being careful to not wipe too much away. You should see a noticeable difference in your finish and with a little bit of practice it should look very professional.

 

 

 

 

Dear Maintenance Service:

I have a two-handled kitchen faucet that constantly leaks.  I have replaced the seals repeatedly. What is the problem? 

Joe

 

Dear Joe:

One of the most over looked parts in a faucet is the Seats. The Seats are located deep in the faucet body below the valve stem. A cracked or chipped seat will cause a faucet to leak even after the seals are replaced.   A quick primer in two handles faucet repairs: Turn off the water at the angle stop valves under your sink.  Remove the handles, remove the stem, and make sure the stem is not turned tight against the seat, as this will make removal of the stem difficult.  Replace the rubber washer on the stem and the “O” ring inside the stem. Then remove the “Seat” from base of the faucet.  The “seat” can be removed using an “L” shaped faucet seat-wrench tool. This tool will fit most sizes of square and hex holes in faucet seats. This tool is reasonably priced at most hardware stores for less then $5.00.  After replacing the seats, check that the nylon gasket is attached to the stem and reassemble the faucet.  The leaking should stop, and the faucet will be as good as new.  When replacing seals in a faucet, always replace the seats at the same time. 

 

 

 

 

 

Bio:

 

Jerry L'Ecuyer is the owner of JLE Property Management & Buffalo Maintenance and is a licensed contractor & real estate broker.  He is currently on the Board of Directors and Chairman of the Education Committee for the Apartment Association of Orange County.  Jerry has been involved with apartments as a professional since 1988 and can be reached at (714) 778-0480. Frank Alvarez is the Operations Director for Buffalo Maintenance. He has been involved with apartment maintenance for over 14 years. Frank can be reached at (714) 956-8371 or visit the office at, 202 E. Broadway in Anaheim, CA 92805. Please visit our web site at: WWW.JLE1.COM